Lisbon Cardigan-The Inside Story

Beautiful Inside of my Lisbon Cardigan

 Awhile back I sewed up this Coral Lisbon Cardigan ..what I didn't tell you about is the beautiful inside of it!

This Classic Beauty from Itch to Stitch
patterns can be as beautiful Inside as Out with just a little investment of your time.

And lets face it, the Inside of Cardigans are often seen when worn unbuttoned or when slung over a chair or such.

I love the various Cardigans I have sewn but sometimes the Inside can look 'homemade'.

They all have lovely serged seam finishes...the problem is the color of thread used to serge does not always look as nice as it could.

Of course, one can buy serger thread in every color under the sun but it is not always realistic for the home sewist to buy lots of colors.

There is another option though....

Now, isn't this Inside Fabulous!

I was thrilled to read about how one could do the Hong Kong seam finish on knits in the Lisbon Cardigan Pattern instructions!

The Hong Kong seam finish is not difficult to do.  It just takes a bit more time.

Now I could create Cardigans that looked like 'high end' fashion!

The secret is in what fabric is used to create the Hong Kong finish on knits.  It needs to be a very lightweight knit.

Love this slightly deeper Coral on the Seams

Well, I happened to have the Perfect Color of very lightweight knit fabric for the Lisbon Cardigan I was planning to make.  Time to try this out on knit fabric!  ( I have done the Hong Kong seam finish on woven garments)

It was Love... no problem at all..in fact I found it slightly easier to do in knit fabric.

The only place I found a bit too much bulk in the seams to be an issue was where the side seams meet the bottom band.

Smooth Soft Hong Kong Seam Finish

In future makes I will try ending the Hong Kong finish on the side seam bottoms about 5/8" from the end.  That should eliminate the bulk where the side seam meets the bottom band.  Once the bottom band seam, with its Hong Kong finish, is pressed upward and tacked down no raw edges should be visible.

Look at all those Beautiful Seams

Now my mind is whirling with possibilities for interesting fabrics to use for Hong Kong seam finishes on knits....I have some Gorgeous Soft Stretch Lace ...hmmm...could be interesting!


So when you see this Lisbon Cardigan, remember, it is just as Beautiful Inside as Out!

Mad for Plaid - A Sewing Adventure

A Sewing Adventure!  Are you up for one? 

Using a plaid fabric to sew up the latest Itch to Stitch pattern, the Envigado Vest, turned it into a personal Creative Challenge!  What an Adventure to discover the extent of my sewing skills!

Now, before I go any further, let me reassure you that when sewn in a solid fabric, or simple print, the Envigado Vest is a project well within the capabilities of the intermediate sewist.

Quite an interesting project as well, with princess seams, optional hong kong seam finish, hardware, zipper, drawstring and more.

Check out all the fabric choices the pattern testers used for inspiration to sew your own version HERE

However, using plaid fabric like I did raises the skill level to advanced  

It requires patience and calmness but mostly a joyous upbeat approach...this is all about enjoying using the sewing skills one has acquired for a fabulously satisfying experience!

This Plaid Fabric is a very lightweight wool blend.  Lightweight fabric is a key to ease of sewing this pattern.  Many layers to sew through in some places, like the front flap.

Back View

With princess seams, the plaid cannot be matched on the entire seam because of the curve.

I chose to start matching from the bottom up until it became impossible to match any further.

The back shows the plaid matching best, as the front has pockets over alot of it.

Front Flap - the Plaid Matches!!!

One of the most challenging parts for me was matching the plaid on the front flap piece to the body of the vest.

It required lots of reviewing of the construction and application method of the flap to get the placement of the plaid just right.

Even then, I did make a minor booboo.  Interfaced the wrong piece...should have been the top piece but I did the bottom piece. Oh well, at least it stills functions that way.

Bias Cut Accents Add Interest

Plaid prints cut on the bias add very interesting visual interest to a garment.

I chose to use bias cut plaid on the Drawstring Cover and Pockets. 

Since bias cut fabric can be easily pulled out of shape during handling, I made sure to interface all bias cut pieces even if  interfacing them was not called for in the pattern.

Great care was taken while interfacing these pieces to make sure they were not being distorted, by comparing the original pattern piece with the bias cut piece before the first touch of the iron to adhere the interfacing!

Thus interfaced, the bias pieces are a breeze to use.

The addition of flat piping to the Drawstring Cover gives a restful pause for the eyes between the regular and bias cut pieces, thus highlighting the different directions of the plaid.

Adding bias binding to the pocket flaps does this as well.

Making Hole and Inserting Snap

Adding Back of Snap and Securing it

Hardware such as Eyelets and no sew Snaps add such a professional touch to home sewn garments! 

They are not difficult to install.  Just do a practice run or two.

I had such a good time sewing this Plaid Envigado Vest! 

Sewing is not just about the finished product... It is also about enjoying the journey! 

Sometimes that means Challenging Yourself with a Sewing Adventure!

Sew....what about Your next Sewing Adventure....Will it be an Envigado Vest too?

Enjoy the Sewing Journey, Not Just the Destination

The Hong Kong seam finish inside my Hvar Jacket

Have you ever had your eye on a certain sewing pattern or sewing technique but were hesitant to try
it?

Sometimes we can talk ourselves out of trying something new because it is out of our comfort zone.  Perhaps we think it will take too much time and energy to learn a new interesting sewing technique.  Or we just don't want to have to do the fitting adjustments on a new pattern.

Whatever the reason, at times it is good to push ourselves to try something new!  It makes sewing more enjoyable and satisfying.  It reminds one that it is the Journey, not just the Destination that matters.

I have had my eye on the  Hvar Jacket by Itch to Stitch for awhile.  And the suggested Hong Kong seam finish looked beautiful.

The Hvar is not your average ho hum jacket!

Line Drawing of Hvar Jacket

Firstly, it has a beautiful waterfall collar.

Then there is the pointed front hem.

Lastly the shaping of this jacket, with back fisheye dart and front bust dart makes it extrememly flattering to the wearer.

Basletweave Texture Wool Fabric

The push I needed to get sewing this was coming across the Perfect Fabric for it!

The Hvar Jacket needs to be made in a fabric with great drape.

My fabric is a Gorgeous Wool Blend.

There is a Basketweave Texture on the right side of the fabric.

Hong Kong seam finish

Since this is an unlined jacket the inside seams are visible.  So a beautiful seam finish is a great idea.

The Hong Kong seam finish is an option given in the pattern.

Here is a close up of it in my Hvar Jacket.

The Hong Kong seam finish is not hard to do, it just is a bit time consuming.  This is the perfect pattern to try it out on though, as there are only 4 pattern pieces, therefore few seams.


This seam finish itself raises the Hvar Jacket to High End Fashion!

It is basically wrapping the seam edge with bias tape.  Complete how to instructions can be found here: https://itch-to-stitch.com/hong-kong-seam-finish-part-1/

I chose to make my own bias tape as well so it would coordinate nicely with my fabric.

If a thicker fabric like mine is used, I suggest sewing with a Mircotex Needle like I did.  It makes the extra bulk in places easier to sew through.

It was a true pleasure sewing this jacket!  My fabric was a dream to work with.  The pattern pieces fit together easily. The Hong Kong seam finish worked out great.

Altogether things added up to a Lovely Sewing Journey and a Stunning End Destination...

Love the Waterfall Front!

Back Fisheye Darts add Flattering Shaping

Love my Hvar Jacket

Hope this Inspires You to try a new pattern or technique as well. 

Happy Sewing...Enjoy the Journey.....

A Little Something Extra - The Vientiane Skirt

Turquoise Corduroy Vientiane Skirt

Do you Love garments with that Little Something Extra?

Well let me introduce you to the Vientiane Skirt by Itch to Stitch!

Love those Flounces!

Flounces! this is the biggest something extra!  They make a simple A- line skirt come alive with Playfulness and Femininity!

Pockets - Inseam or Patch! This something extra adds convenience and , with the patch pockets, Visual Interest to the Skirt.

Wide Contour Waistband! This something extra adds Comfort since it rest easily on the Waist!

Back View of Vientiane Skirt

 Invisible Back Zipper!  This something extra adds a Professional, Clean look to the Skirt Back!

Lined option!  This something extra brings Practicality and Wearing Ease to this garment!




All these Little Something Extra's, transform an regular A- line Skirt into Something Extra-Ordinary!

TheVientiane Skirt is Terrific in many Fabric Types.  Medium weight woven fabrics with or without stretch.

I absolutely Love my Corduroy Vientiane Skirt.  It will be getting plenty of wear this Fall and Winter.

Come Spring you'll find me stitching up a Summer Version!

What season will you stitch one up for?

Happy Sewing...

Use Those Decorative Stitches For Visual Interest!

Decorative Accent on Yoke of Arenal Top

Part of the enjoyment of Sewing your own Clothes is being able to add interesting touches to your Garments.

An easy way to add Visual Interest is using the Decorative and Other Stitches on your Sewing Machine!

I love the Visual Interest this added to the Arenal Top I recently made!

Even the most basic machine will have a few options.  Zig Zag Stitch alone could be really interesting just by varying the width and length of the Stitch, along with different thread colors.

Here are the various stitches my Janome machine has.  Some are purely Decorative. Others serve a specific purpose yet also look attractive enough to use in a Decorative way.

Stitch Options on My Janome

When sewing with Stretch Fabrics, use Stretch Stitches!  This will ensure the fabric will keep it's stretch factor.   If unsure which ones are, sew a sample on the fabric and give it a Stretch!

Have Fun by trying out different stitch lengths/widths and various threads on scraps of your fabric.  Soon one combination will catch your fancy!

Yokes with Decorative Stitches Sewn to the Front Piece

The Arenal Top by Itch to Stitch, has Yokes, which are the Perfect Place to add Visual Interest.

Once I had decided on a Stitch and Thread Combination, I added the Decorative sewing to a piece of fabric large enough to cut the yokes out of.  This way each side would match and it was easy to place the stitches exactly where I wanted them on the Yoke Piece.

It's amazing how a little of Visual Interest will take a garment from just OK to Terrific!

Using Decorative Stitches in this way also helps you save money!  Instead of buying a coordinating fabric to add visual interest You Make Your Own!!  And it helps use up leftover fabric too, since just by using various Thread Colors with a Decorative Stitch, one fabric can look great with many other fabrics!

So, start playing with the various Stitches on Your Machine! Be imaginative in where to add them! And Have fun adding Visual Interest to Your next Sew!

My Completed Arenal Top

Happy Sewing...

The Bonn Shirt and Dress - A Pattern with Flair!

Love these Flare Sleeves

Flair =  Elegance, Stylishness, Panache, Pizzazz, Class

All great words to describe the Bonn Shirt and Dress by Itch to Stitch!

And then there is Flare = A Gradual Widening

That too applies to the Bonn Shirt I stitched up!  It has Wonderful Flare Sleeves! Aren't they just Terrific?  I Love the Fun, Feminine, Dramatic touch.








 

Four Sleeve Options and Dress Option

If Flared Sleeves aren't your cup of tea, or you just want a optional style, the Bonn Shirt and Dress will still fit the bill.


Long Sleeves, 3/4 Sleeves, Short Sleeves or Flare Sleeves are all provided in this pattern.

Then there is the option to make a Dress instead of a Shirt.  What could be better than that?  From one Pattern you can Sew Up so Many Different Items!  Now that is Value!!







The Collar is really nice too.  A Modified Mandarin style that Lays Flat against your neck and enhances the gentle V shaped placket.  Very Flattering to everyone!

Flat Laying Modified Mandarin Collar

The Body of the Shirt is Easy Fitting.  Just the right amount of comfort factor yet still makes one look well put together!

Back View

Looks Great with a Skirt Too

Make it Dressy or Casual! See how well it Looks with a Skirt as well.

Either way you will be Totally in Love with it.

Now I'm off to Sew up another Bonn Shirt...or maybe the Bonn Dress this time...Give the Bonn Shirt and Dress a go yourself and add Flair to your Wardrobe!



Happy Sewing........

Fabulous Reversible Bucket Hat - Free Pattern By Lost in Paris

Have you ever had trouble finding a Hat that Fits?

A Friend of mine has real trouble finding hats that fit her since her hat size is larger than the average woman.

This Friend gets Sunstroke very easily so in the Hot Weather a Hat is a must.  She wets the hats to cool her head better!!

So, she asked me to help her make a Hat or Two in her size.

First we tried drafting our own pattern following instructions found on the internet but that didn't work as well as we'd hoped.  Too much room for error in the fitting.

A well-drafted pattern is a thing of beauty when it comes to sewing!  Most of the patterns I love and make time and again come from someone who knows how to fine tune a pattern. (Like Kennis Wong who is the Creative Force behind the Itch to Stitch Patterns)

In my search for a good bucket hat pattern I came across tons of kids patterns.  But only a few for women.  Thankfully, Alyssa from Lost in Paris has kindly posted a Free Pattern for a Bucket Hat.
Here is the link: http://blog.lostinparis.com.au/subscribe/free-pattern-denim-reversible-bucket-hat/.

I love free patterns.  Especially when its a new to me item to sew.  That way I can gain experience sewing the item, learn the ins and outs of it.

As it turns out this Pattern is Terrific!  Makes up into a Lovely Bucket Hat! 

I chose a Twill fabric in light Turquoise  for One Side and a White and Black Damask print Cotton for the Reverse Side.  A Striking Combination don't you think?  The colors are light so they will not absorb the suns heat as much, yet still have a nice colorful touch.

This was a Fun, Fast, Easy Sew!

Now I'm off to Stitch Another One up for Myself since this one is going Home with my Friend!

I'd love to see the Hat You Make from this Pattern.

Happy Sewing.....

"Through the Seasons" with the Seville Skirt

The Summer Season is slowly ebbing away in my part of the world.  Wardrobe Changes will soon be needed.

Can One Skirt span all the Seasons?

I decided to put my 'Pretty in Pink' Seville Skirt to the test!  Join me on this Fun Journey!


Let me begin by saying that I adore the combination of Pink and Black, along with hints of White or other colors!



First up is Spring:

This Sweet Short Sleeve Top is perfect as the weather warms up.

With a Lisbon Cardigan  along in case of a cool breeze my Spring Outfit is all set.







 On to Summer:

Wow, is it Hot out!

Change to a Breezy Vienna Tank, lose the nylons covering my legs and add Slide Sandles on my Feet!


That was Easy.  A Cool, Comfortable Summer Outfit!

Fall/Autumn

Time to warm things up a notch with a Lightweight, 3/4 Sleeve, Rayon Knit Sweater.

Add some nylons to my legs  and Shoes with enclosed toes.

Top it all off with a Flowing Silk Scarf! Perfect....







And Now for Winter:

It's Cold Outside so First On Pull on Some Great Boots ( and also heavier tights if you want)!

Add a Warm Corduroy Jacket and snuggle up the neck with a Scarf  that has lots of wraps.

If more warmth is needed add a Hepburn Turtleneck under that Jacket and a Smart Hat and Gloves! All Snuggly Warm!












 And so the Journey through the Seasons is Complete!  One Skirt Can do it All.......

I'd love to see Your Seville Skirt Seasonal Outfits........Stitch one up if you haven't already and create your very own  "Through the Seasons" Fashion Show!


Have Fun With It.....I Sure Did!

Carey Top - a Dolman Sleeve Beauty!

Carey Top with Pleasing Dolman Sleeves

Not all Dolman Sleeve Tops are created equal! If not Drafted Well, a Dolman Sleeve Pattern can end up looking overly Baggy and Unflattering!

That said, check out the Carey Top by Itch to Stitch.  It's a Real Winner!!


The Sleeves of the Carey Top are stylish and flattering without extra bagginess.
The Shoulder Panel adds a pop of interest with it's Contrasting Fabric.
The Drawstrings create more Visual Interest and a lovely Gathered Effect.
The High-Low Shirttail Hem is the final stylish element that brings everything together!

Contrast Shoulder Panel of the Carey Top

Carey Top is a Quick and Easy Sew.  In a couple of hours you will have a Comfy and Stylish Top!  And it can be made in either Woven or Knit fabric.



Change up the Length and go from a Tunic, which also makes a Terrific Swim Coverup, to a regular Top Length like the one in the Photos.  It was shortened by 2 inches.  Or make it Dress Length.  Add a great belt and it Rocks!

So Comfy!!

 I also chose to Highlight the Neck Binding by placing it on the Outside.


Carey Top is a great option for when you want a bit of Sun Protection!  It is lightweight and breezy yet covers the shoulders and arms well.

Relalxing in my Carey Top!

Back View of Carey Top

I've never been disappointed with a Pattern from Itch to Stitch because they are so Excellently Drafted! 


Itch to Stitch Patterns are Easy to Fit to your unique body proportions too.



The Techniques used in the sewing are High Quality, while the Instructions and  Illustrations are Clear and Easy to Understand.

Mocha loves my Carey Top Too!

Give the Carey Top a go and you'll see what I mean.  You will soon be hooked on Itch to Stitch patterns like me!!



Happy Sewing....

New Favorite Summer Top - Not a T-Shirt!

This Purple Plaid Woven Version of the Vienna Tank has come to be my Favorite Summer Top!

 Now, I admit T Shirts were my go to Summer Staple.  Not any more!  Once I saw This Pattern by Itch to Stitch  it was a game changer!

So much more Dressier than a T-Shirt don't you think?

While the Vienna Tank is meant for Knit fabrics (except for the yoke, which is in Woven fabric), it can very easily be sewn up in a lightweight woven fabric.  An easy Vertical Front Adjustment is used if making a C cup bust size or larger.  For info on how to do this see my post The Vienna Tank - Using All Woven Fabric.







The Vienna Tank has great features like a Yoke, which can be made in matching or contrasting fabric for a Color Blocking look.

Soft Gathers in the Center Back and Shoulder Seams make this Top loose and flowing without being over-big.

A cute bias cut ruffle can be added or left off, depending on your choice.  I added one to this particular one!

And it's a Fast Sew, not more than about 2 hours from start to finish.













So far, I've made 3  Vienna Tanks . One from knit fabric and two from woven fabric.  But I must admit this particular one is my Favorite! The Fabric Choice is what makes is so Terrific!
 It's sewn from a Lightweight Cotton Shirting.  So Cool and Comfortable I wish I had one for everyday!  If I find more fabric like this I soon will!


So, what about you? Does the Vienna Tank sound interesting?  Check it out and see if it dosen't become a Summer  Favorite for You too!


Here's a link to the Pattern for you.
http://itch-to-stitch.com/product/vienna-tank-digital-sewing-pattern-pdf/?affiliates=seasidefabricrafts

Happy Sewing!!